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Sustainable Cotton Project Promotes Use of Organic Fibers to Future Designers.

Inspired by the Sustainable Cotton Project (SCP), graduate students at the Academy of Art College featured organically grown fibers in their collections at this year's Academy of Art College Annual fashion show, held May 23rd at The Warehouse, 1835 Van Ness Ave., San Francisco. Sacks Fifth Ave in Union Square also presented a live projection of the fashion show on the Post Street side of the Sax building.

SCP, a non-profit farmer based organization dedicated to increasing the market for organic cotton, played an instrumental role in building student awareness of the benefits of organic fiber. By working with the Academy of Art College, SCP informed students about environmental issues around conventional cotton, outlined how designers can make a difference, and facilitated the donation of organic cotton fabrics and yarns from the industry.

Over the past 2 years Academy fashion students and business representatives of the fashion industry have attended farm tours of California cotton farms, hosted by SCP, to see for themselves the difference between organic and conventional farming techniques. SCP also helps companies implement their own organic cotton programs.

As a result of the SCP program, three Academy students, Jong Sook, winner of the Council of Fashion Designers of America Award (CDFA), Justin Kennedy and Nobue Shinohara incorporated organic cotton, linen and wool into their collections, which were viewed at the fashion show. Jong Sook and Justyn Kennedy graduated with the honor of being accepted as interns with New York designer, Oscar de La Renta. As a result, Justyn Kennedy will be assisting with the design of Balmain's couture collection in Paris, which is handled by the de La Renta studio.

SCP is helping to influence designers and business minds in two other Bay Area schools; Haas School of Business at UC Berkeley, and California College of Arts and Crafts, as well as three top schools in London; the Royal College of Art, Central Saint Martins, and Kingston University. The Royal College of Art recently embarked upon an organic cotton project to be featured in their student fashion show 2001. The project is co-sponsored by SCP, UK retailer Marks and Spencer and UK fashion designer Katherine Hamnett.

Cotton provides almost 50% of the world's textile needs, and accounts for nearly nine million acres in more than 70 countries. Conventional cotton uses 23% of the world's insecticides and 10% of the world's pesticides. The chemicals used on cotton to control pests include some of the most toxic ones available and are considered to be high-risk carcinogens. As a matter of reference, the cotton grown for just one T-shirt requires 1/3 pound of agricultural chemicals.

Since the cotton industry is such a large business, and the plants are so susceptible to pests, genetic engineering companies have targeted cotton for Genetically Modified Organism (GMO) solutions to chemicals. Several varieties of GMO cotton have already entered the market, giving rise to concern for both environmental and consumer safety. Few people realize that 60% of a cotton crop, by weight, enters the food chain in the form of cotton seed oil which is used widely in processed foods, and as cotton seed feed for cows, thereby entering the dairy and meat chains.

Through efforts from campaigns such as SCP, some companies have become concerned enough about cotton production methods, and the effects on the environment, that they have altered their decision making around cotton use. Outdoor company, Patagonia converted their entire cotton line to organic in 1996. Sportswear giant Nike US has run a 3% blend of organic in millions of their T-shirts and knitted goods since 1998. And most recently, UK's largest retailer, Marks and Spencer launched their 100% organic cotton test in 12 stores across the UK. This steady market increase in organic cotton has also influenced conventional cotton farmers to convert their fields to organic.

In 1999, organic cotton acreage in the US increased by 75% to 16,413 acres. It is expected that organic cotton will follow the path of organic food, gradually but steadily increasing market share and providing a choice for consumers over conventional and GMO cottons.