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Giorgio Armani's
"green" spirit is embodied by Armani Jeans
This collection is about fashion which respects
the environment, where technology bows to ecology, as the
production process aims at saving energy and all processes
bear the European Oeko-Tex Standard 100 guarantee which
certifies that health-harming chemical substances are eradicated
during production. The project was started in 1995 and has
over the years become more complex and diversified.The first
step was recycled denim, putting in process an operation
for regenerating indigo denim making it, dry and free from
additives and thus preventing the destruction of the materials
in the incinerators of public dumps. Not even dyes are used
and the color is that of the previous life of the fabric.
This approach was so revolutionary at the
time that the following year a pair of Armani jeans was
puton display at the Innovations Exhibition at the Science
and Technology Museum of Milan. From 18 April 1996, for
four months, it was kept in a special Plexiglas box, accompanied
by silk-screen-printed pictures of the materials during
the various phases of the procedure, descriptions and a
brief history of environment-friendly jeans. In the autumn/winter
96/97 collections new materials were added for recycling:
woolen cloth, with 60% recycled wool according to a very
ancient tradition but with a totally new technology; and
recycled pile; and recycled cross-dyed cotton leading to
a drastic reduction in the double exploitation of cotton
fields, which would otherwise deplete the land and involve
the use of antiparasitics, insecticides and weed killers.
Washing is also protected by the Oeko-Tex certificate: eco
wash, eco bleach, eco stone.
In the belief that enhancing Armani Jeans
products with environmental awareness is also important,
as the target is a young consumer increasingly attentive
to all health and environmental matters, in November of
the same year hemp made it's debut. A range of men's and
women's garments was marketed, made in a fabric which had
completely disappeared from the market and obtained from
a plant no longer cultivated in Italy. Hemp is a herbaceous
vegetable which does not require pesticides or weed killers
and which represents one of the most effective photosynthetic
converters of carbon dioxide into oxygen. Once processed,
hemp produces a highly resistant and clean yarn, with a
molecular structure which makes the fabric cool in summer(it
absorbs up to 95% of infrared and UVA rays) and warm and
comfortable in the winter. It is also the only material
whose production cycle is carried out solely in Italy, ensuring
total control for consumers.
In order to underline the commitment, in line
with EC directives, to creating new "industrial ethics",
Armani Jeans took part in the interesting experiment of
the Ecomoda event, at the Milan Triennale, which overviews
all production policies relating to environmental improvement,
energy saving and beco-compatible technological advance.
Having laid the foundations for this new fashion thinking,
the project expanded by reviving traditional Italian processes
and inserting futuristic technologies: from calico, which
in the nineteenth century was used to make the sails of
boats on the Adriatic, with details, finishes and waxing
created according to the rules of period crafted sails,
to the "new techno fabric" - polyester obtained
from the recycling of plastic bottles, a technique hitherto
used only for pile. The labels are also Oeko-Tex.
Giorgio Armani says: "Armani Jeans is
and will increasingly be aimed at prioritizing strategies
linked to environmental improvement, with potential for
added value for products and consumers without affecting
the final price. Our commitment represents a focal point
for corporate image and underlines the importance of creating
new industrial ethics, to support future market challenges".
As part of expansion of processing techniques, Armani Jeans
has also included a small production range of knitwear in
organic cotton, free from chemical synthesis residues (pesticides,
antiparasitics) and not genetically engineered. It is part
of a fair trade project with Peru and Bolivia to aid an
uncorrupted relaunch of the economy of these countries and
make a significant contribution to natural farming methods.
Thus in the same fields where previously cocaine plants
were cultivated, the local population now grows cotton:
also presented in a cotton/angora mixture, to guarantee
ecological correctness and convenience, the angora acting
as a bithermal material. Then there is the Pima cotton/Alpaca
mixture in eco-guaranteed cotton and pure Alpaca wool from
an ancient Andean race, only in natural colors so as to
save some species of dark-coated Alpaca from extinction,
colors which otherwise would be rejected as deviating from
the standards set by the wool manufacturing industry.
The Armani Jeans Ecology Project continues
to grow and experiment. Day after day it deals with health,
the environment and fashion: the first steps towards a good
relationship with the world.
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